In a large bowl combine seeds from 20 cardamom pods, finely crushed using a pestle and mortar, 1½ tsp. paprika, 1½ tsp. dried oregano, 1½ tsp. ground cinnamon, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. salt and a generous grind of freshly ground black pepper. Add 6 large chicken thighs (or 8 smaller ones), bone in, skin on, coat well and set aside to marinate at least 20 minutes, or refrigerate for longer if getting ahead. If the latter, remove chicken from refrigerator at least 30 minutes before you start cooking.

Preheat oven to 400°.

Place a large, lidded, nonstick, ovenproof sauté pan over medium heat. Once hot, add the noodles and toast, stirring often, until deeply brown, about 10–12 minutes. Transfer toasted noodles to a plate, then return the pan to medium-high heat. Add 3 large chicken thighs (or 4 smaller ones), bone in, skin on, skin-side down, and cook for about 5 minutes or until nicely coloured. Turn pieces over and cook on the other side 2 minutes more. Transfer to a tray or plate and repeat with remaining 3 large chicken thighs (or 4 smaller ones), bone in, skin on.

Add remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, the 1 onion, finely chopped (180 g/6¼ oz.), 2 cinnamon sticks, 3 fresh bay leaves and a tiny pinch of salt and cook about 4–5 minutes, stirring often, until softened and lightly browned. Add 250 g (9 oz.) basmati rice, washed until the water runs clear, then soaked for at least 20 minutes and up to 2 hours, then drained, toasted vermicelli, and remaining 1 tsp. fine sea salt and cook for a minute more, stirring continuously. Pour in 720 ml (25 oz) hot water, give everything a stir, then top with chicken thighs (don’t push them into the rice), skin-side up, along with any of their juices. Cover and transfer to oven for 40 minutes.

Remove from oven and turn up temperature to 475°. Top each chicken thigh with a cube of butter, then bake, lid off, 10 minutes more, or until chicken is nice and crisp and the edges of the pan are browned. Take out of oven and let settle 5–10 minutes, then transfer the chicken thighs onto a tray or plate. Use a slotted spoon to gently loosen the rice, then place a very large platter on top of the pan. In one swift movement, and using a tea towel to help you, carefully invert the whole thing onto it. You should have some nice, crisped-up rice around the top and edges. Use a small serrated knife to break apart the crispy rice (the tahdig) into random chunks, then top with the chicken thighs. Sprinkle over 5 g (⅛ oz.) parsley, roughly chopped, squeeze over the ½ lemon and serve warm.